One of the key reasons why IR panels are so much more efficient than other forms of heating is the precision with which you can use them. They can be targeted very precisely for the maximum benefit.
Let’s look at the steps for you to get the maximum benefit from your infrared heating panels.
If you’re looking to provide the same effect as a central heating system, you need to count the number of zones in your home. A zone is an area of use, such as a room or a common area like a hallway or landing. There will be at least one panel per zone. If a room is L-shaped, then that may be considered as two zones.
A typical semi-detached house of about 1200 ft.² will have about 9 zones to heat: hallway, living room/dining area, kitchen, bathroom, 3 bedrooms, landing.
There’s no hard and fast rule on deciding exactly how many panels you need to heat a property. A lot depends on the age of the property, the level of insulation, quality of windows, and design of the place. A small, old and damp terrace house can require up to 30% more input.
Generally speaking, Infrared panels can cope better with draughty and high ceiling accommodation, as the energy is transmitted more to objects than to the air.
To calculate the wattage you need for a living space, you need to calculate the cubic meter size of a room. Do this by multiplying the width and length of a room by its height. Then multiply the total by 30 to get the wattage needed.
An example living room: 4m length x 4.2m width x 2.4m height = 40.32 m3.
Then 40.32 X 30 = 1210 watts. Add more for a badly insulated room.
When selecting panel sizes, also consider the layout of your rooms. It may be better to have 2 smaller panels in a room, rather than one large one.
Don’t be too concerned about not getting your estimation exactly right first time. Additional panels can easily be bought and existing ones moved around.
New, or recently refurbished properties may only require up to 20% less in the way of the heating due to the improved insulation, windows and build quality.
It will really pay you to take a bit of time to consider the best place to position your infrared panels, as they are transmitting heat directly to you and so need to be placed where their heat can most easily reach you.
There are three ways you can position your panels:
Choosing where to position your infrared heating panels will require you to analyse your daily habits in your living environment. Where do you spend the most time? Where do you typically sit? And if you are using thermostat timers, which we recommend, what time of the day do you occupy these areas?
For example, in your living room, you may spend quite a few hours sitting on the sofa watching television. It’s therefore important that the infrared heating panel(s) are positioned on the wall where they can transmit directly to you on the sofa. And they should be in front of you, not on the wall directly behind your head. Often, 2 panels are better in a living room to cover the typical seating position of at least 2 occupants and to best cover the area.
In the bedroom, it’s better to place a panel on the wall opposite your bed, or to the side, rather than immediately behind your head. This will allow the infrared heat to disperse across your whole bed and gently warm you.
We don’t recommend placing panels too high up on walls, unless you have a specific reason for this, such as heating office areas. Just above midway on a wall to match chest height of a person is usually optimum.
The panels surface heat to about 90 degrees only, they won't burn skin unless it's left in direct contact for a sustained period.
TIP: the infrared panels are lightweight and highly portable. They are ideal for moving from place to place. And when you move to a new house - take them with you!
So now you’ve chosen the best places in your home to position your panels, the next step is to consider automating its function. It’s a lot easier to leave the operation of the panels set to timers rather than having to remember to switch them on and off.
It is also worth considering getting our affordable plug-in timer and temperature controllers. This will enable you to control the panels to come on at the best times throughout the day. Such as turning off the heating in the middle of the night or when the room has reached 21 degrees.
The simplest thermostat timer is one that plugs into the electrical socket. If you are burying the wires into your wall or putting them into a conduit, then consider purchasing wired or wireless thermostat timers that are built into the wall like a light switch; these can support multiple panels.
You will need a masonry drill (6 mm) and screwdriver. And ideally, a spirit-level to ensure that the 4 holes are level. Wall plugs and screws are included in the pack, along with a general guide to installation. You may find it better to use a slightly bigger screw than provided in the pack if your wall fitting isn’t tight.
A template is also provided to help give an indication as to how the panel will look on the surface, and to show the drilling spots for the screws.
Wires can be either hidden or exposed.
From each panel, there is an electrical lead and standard UK plug attached. This goes into an ordinary wall socket, or if one is not nearby, then use a standard extension lead to reach it with the appropriate fuse rating.
The cables can be hidden. One method is to buy sticky backed plastic electrical conduit and hide the wire in that. It can run down the wall and along the top of the skirting board to the nearest electrical socket.
Of course, for a complete job, the wires will need to be buried into the wall. Use a level to mark to horizontal pencil lines from under where the panel will be on the wall down to the skirting board and chip out the plaster to a depth of about 1 inch. There are specialist routing tools, some of which go on the end of electric drills, which will automate this process. Clearly, this work can be a bit messy, but it’s perfectly possible to do for most handy persons and can be tied into a refurbishment or renovation.
In the event the purchaser chooses to fully install the heaters, but appoints an independent electrician/installer, this entirely at your own risk and liability so please consult and read fully our terms and conditions including our warranty policy.
Panels can be wired into an electrical circuit within the property, whether this is the existing circuit or requires a new circuit is to be determined and is the responsibility of a fully qualified electrician installing the system.
Removing the plug counts as altering the product under normal circumstances. This in turn will void the warranty however if the installer is a fully qualified electrician, upon completing the installation the purchaser must supply Warm4less with the relevant documentation certifying the installation has been correctly carried out, either by email or by post to our trading address. This will keep the warranty intact under normal circumstances after having approved the documentation provided.
When a plug is removed and the panel is being wired in, the electrician will draw power from the nearest and most appropriate power source. Then go to a switched fused spur, then to the controller in question (or receiver) and then to a fused power outlet which feeds each panel.
In the even multiple panels are being installed to one controller or one receiver, each panel requires its own fused power outlet.
It’s important that the correct, lowest rated fuse is used with each panel for the right protection.
Alternatively, panels can be installed in a chain using, for example using a clip connector i.e. WAGO providing the connector is the correct rating for the panel/s in question.
Panels that are fixed to the ceiling must use the ceiling kit that is provided in the box with the heater. Our dedicated ceiling range of heaters will come with a ceiling kit included in the box as standard, all other ranges will come with the standard wall fixings. The ceiling kit allows a much more secure fixing than the wall kit when ceiling mounting.
The kit that comes included in the box with the heater allows as flush a finish to the ceiling as possible while still leaving a safe air gap from the back of the heater to the ceiling. This helps to avoid any unwanted heat build-up and will ensure your infrared heater will last as long as possible. We also offer our suspension kit (in the accessories section) which will allow the heater to be suspended down from the ceiling by up to 1 metre. This is great for high ceiling properties where surface mounting isn't an option.
Heaters mounted to the ceiling without using one of our dedicated ceiling kits will void the warranty of the heater.
If you’re unsure as to what surface the panel is being installed on, you must consult us prior to fixing the panel to ensure a safe fixing.
If there is anything you or your electrician is unsure, please consult the relevant professional body for advice and expertise when wiring in the heaters.
Did you know?
According to research by the think tank, Policy Exchange, there are over one million working households struggling to afford their energy bills and living in under-heated homes.